This isn't always possible in practice, but the fuse should be as close to the battery as you can reasonably mount it. Mount the charger using self-tapping screws or, better yet, stainless-steel nuts and bolts in a dry, well-ventilated location. We mounted our charger under the center-console, keeping it away from the compass because mounting it closer than a couple of feet is likely to cause some compass deviation. The charger I installed has a maximum output of 20 amps, so the fuse that I chose was the next size up, a amp terminal-mounted fuse.
The wires are terminated with crimp-on ring terminals. Before crimping, slip a length of heat-shrink tubing down to cover the joint, then warm it using a hot-air gun or hair dryer to make the connection waterproof. Use a hot-air gun or hair dryer if possible, to warm heat-shrink tubing. A small portable torch or even a match works, but tends to leave soot marks, which look unsightly. The heat-shrink tubing also supplies some measure of strain relief to the wire. Either use one of the less-expensive all-in-one crimp-on tools or invest in the ratchet-type double crimpers, which do a far better job.
I used plastic clips and cable ties but other types are available. And you're done! You're charging set up should look all nice and neat like the one above when finished.
With the DC connections made, turn your attentions to the AC side. The charger that I was using didn't have a lead connected, so I had to add one. Use the wire size recommended in the installation instructions that come with the charger, not just any old wire that you happen to have lying around.
It's also important that any wires are properly supported using saddle clips and wire ties. Mark has built five boats himself both power and sail , has been an experienced editor at several top boating magazines including former associate editor of BoatUS Magazine , worked for the BBC, written four DIY books, skippered two round-the-world yachts, and holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest there-and-back crossing of the English Channel — in a kayak!
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How-To DIY. Cleaning Exterior Systems. If a wire-to-wire connection must be made it should be done using a butt splice, preferably one with adhesive heat-shrink tubing and secured inside the wiring compartment on the charger. If the charger is a potted type and has cables embedded in it, do not extend the wires. If the DC wiring is terminated with alligator clips they should be cut off and terminated with proper ring terminals to prevent the alligator clips from causing a spark, which could lead to a battery explosion.
When connecting the wires to the battery, put the charger wire on top of the big battery cables, not under them. Spray or coat the terminals with a corrosion preventative. Try to use closed barrel terminals and heat shrink or tape over the terminal Ancor Waterproof Ring Terminals are excellent in this application.
The most common wiring failure is corrosion caused by acid and gas wicking up the wire leading to eventual failure. Sealing, corrosion preventatives and routing wires so the terminals are away from the battery caps help forestall failures due to corrosion. If your system uses a shunt in the negative of the battery system, do not connect the charger negative directly to the battery.
It must connect on the same side of the shunt as all the loads and sources on the boat. There should only be one cable between the shunt and the battery. The AC wiring can be as simple as plugging the charger into an extension cord and running that to an outlet in your garage. This would be appropriate for a fishing boat, ski boat or runabout.
If a permanent installation is desired it is likely to fall into one of two categories: 1 the charger is the only load on the boat and thus is wired from the shore power inlet to the charger; 2 the boat has a distribution panel AC breaker panel and the charger is wired to a breaker in the panel.
Spray the terminals and wire ends with a corrosion preventative as you make it up. Before working in the distribution panel, be sure all AC sources are off this includes inverters and generators that may supply the panel.
There may already be a circuit breaker designated for the battery charger. If not, pick an unused breaker of 15 or 20 amps for the new charger circuit. Run an appropriate marine-grade, three-conductor AC cable between the panel and the charger. Following our good practice of working from the load to the source during hookup, we first make up the charger. It will probably have an attached AC wiring box for connections.
Typically these boxes have knockouts that allow the cable to enter from a variety of directions. It is best to enter from the bottom, if possible, with the sides as second choice. Top entry should be the last choice since it makes it easier for water to enter the wiring compartment. Be sure to use strain relief connectors; do not run the AC cable through the knock out alone as it might chafe.
Do not overtighten the strain relief, as it can crush the insulation and cause a short or a hot spot. All it has to do is hold the cable in place.
As with the DC connections, the AC connections should be made with crimp type connections—not wire-nuts. For extra protection, apply tape on top of the connections or use butt splices with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. When folding the wires into the wiring box, be sure they are not pinched or rubbing against screws or fittings in such a way as to cause chafe.
Now to the AC panel. Be sure the cable is securely fastened along its length and as it enters the panel space. Tie it into the wire loom such that it does not bind the panel as it is opened. Locate the AC neutral and ground and connect the white and green wires respectively. The black wire will connect to the circuit breaker. We installed this Xantrex Truecharge2 two-bank charger on our 30' Newport sailboat.
Before starting up the system, check all connections for tightness. Check the battery voltage for a reference. Energize the AC circuit by plugging in shore power and turning on the appropriate circuit breaker.
Watch the battery voltage, it should begin rising almost immediately. This indicates the charger is operating. Allow the charger to go through a complete charge cycle, noting the maximum voltage during acceptance and the final float voltage.
If necessary, adjust the charge regimen to meet the specifications required by your batteries. Check all connections for tightness and be sure the wire size is adequate. If the boat is a liveaboard with heavy loads be sure to check for voltage drop under full load at the charge voltage and the float voltage. Check the voltage at the charger and at the batteries. They should track within 0. You may also want to ensure that the charger lives up to its rating. You can do this by turning on DC load up to equal to the current rating of the charger to see if it can maintain the charging voltage.
Ideally the charger will be able to sustain full rated output at both the acceptance and float voltages. If it cannot maintain full rated output, reduce the load to about 75 percent of rating and test again. If it cannot maintain 75 percent, you may want to call the manufacturer to see if they rated the charger under optimistic conditions. It is best to be present during the first few hours of operation of any new charging source and not to turn on a new installation and walk away from the boat for several days.
One final caution. Some battery chargers stay in acceptance or absorption stage until the charge current falls to a specific level perhaps three amps. That is, the charger will continue to hold the batteries at Modern chargers, like those from Xantrex, will use a timer in addition to the current acceptance of the batteries to cause them to revert to float mode.
This prevents extended times at high voltages, and is an excellent feature to specify—especially if you live aboard.
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